Posts Tagged ‘stay-stitch’

I finally get to place the decorative waistband, which is something I have been looking forward to very much. There isn’t a how-to guide for something like this; it just takes some strategic placing and a lot of creativity. To do this, I placed the skirt onto the dress form inside out so the band could be properly pinned to the garment.

After making a few adjustments to the waistband and then trying the garment on, I stay-stitched the band into place. I don’t believe that this was an absolutely necessary step but I didn’t want it to slip out of place (better safe than sorry!).

Normally, I would opt for a machine stitch but the fabric overlapped a few times in the ruffle, which made it extremely thick. My fear was that I would break the machine needle. So, I decided on a simple hand stitch. I am very pleased with how it turned out:

Once the band was stitched into place and the pins were removed, I started to work on finishing the inside of the band. The fabric (as you can see) frays terribly. So, I wanted to use a finishing stitch on the machine to prevent further fraying. Big mistake! My initial fear about using a machine stitch was correct. I broke the needle. Stupidity or a right of passage? I’ll go with a right of passage. I decided to give it a rest for the night after the needle deal breaker…

Tonight, episode 2 of the new season of Project Runway. Can’t wait!!

After tweaking the darts a bit, I finally got them into place. Continuing on from yesterday, I stay-stitched the skirt panels and darts into place and removed the pins so I could try it on (pins = OUCH). LOVE the fit. Working with an adjustable dress form definitely helps when tailoring a garment to your own measurements.

Next task – drafting the waistband. After some consideration, I decided on a thin standard-looking waistband below the decorative ruffle waistband, which steps away from the original design a little but helps to streamline the look and add functionality.

Drafting the waistbands was fairly easy since both required a rectangular shape. I took the waist measurement and added a 5/8 seam allowance with enough width to fold for the standard waistband. The decorative waistband required more length in order to create the “ruffle”. It also needed a greater width for a more dramatic effect.

After cutting the patterns from Muslin, I started to stay-stitch the bands into place. Small folds were added to the fabric at certain points on the decorative band to create the ruffles. Once the bands are attached, I will be able to determine if any alterations needed to be made to the patterns.

Today, I started to draft the pattern for a skirt designed based upon my inspirational trip to Venice, Italy. I have designed an entire line around this recent trip so, you will see that most of my current projects will contain details representative of Venice and it’s culture, architecture and rich lavish colors. The original design for the skirt (mainly the waistband) was based upon ruffle details seen mostly in Carnival costumes. Walking through Venice, you pass many a shop with decorative masks and costumes designed specifically for the annual Carnevale di Venezia.

I found a basic skirt pattern tutorial in one of my recently purchased books, How to Make Sewing Patterns by Donald H. McCunn. I followed the instructions for the basic straight skirt pattern. However, my design calls for a pencil skirt and a decorative waistband, so some tweaks were made to the initial pattern draft.

After taking my measurements and adjusting my dress form (amazing bday gift!), I created the first pattern draft for the skirt panels.  The only adjustment I made to this first pattern draft, is the cut of the skirt. My design calls for a more pencil skirt look rather than a straight skirt look. So, I used a hip curve ruler to round out the fit. It looks good minus a mistake on the seam allowance on the lower back skirt panels. Not only am I impressed with this book; but I am also impressed with my ability to get this down on paper and make necessary tweaks as I go along. I transferred the pattern draft to Muslin (cheap fabric) and will attempt to stay-stich the pieces together. This will help determine where the darts will be placed and if any changes need to be made to the first pattern draft.

After pinning the garment pieces (inside out) around the dress form and locate the darts, I was thoroughly impressed with the overall look and fit of the main skirt panels. My only concerns are the length of the skirt and the dart placement. The design calls for a “right below the knee” fit. The pattern is falling mid-knee and this is before hemming. So, I decided to add another inch to the length of the pattern draft. I also want to play around with the dart placement a bit.